Not all quilts are square but no matter their shapes or angles they all need a binding whether table topper or quilt.

My new quilt, called Dancing With Blue (named courtesy of Susan Day on FB), was made using all the leftover demonstration visuals from my Craftsy class, Piece Like a Pro, http://www.craftsy.com/ext/Donna-LynnThomas_5256_H. The quilt could have been squared off using borders but I kinda liked the funky shape. It seemed to work well with the design created by the chain blocks. So I chose to leave it just the way it was, skipping borders altogether, and going right to the binding.

It’s easy to find how-to instructions on bindings with nice square corners and even those with curved edges but what about odd angles such as the corners of this quilt?  Let me show you how—-it’s really pretty simple.

 

Dancing with Blue

The chains create a unique effect that would have been diminished with squared corners.

 

odd angles

The angles on these corners are not the usual 90 degree square angles of most quilts.

The main process of binding this quilt was the same as with any quilt. The rule of thumb for determining strip width for double-fold bindings is 8 times the desired finished width of the binding which would be 2″. I prefer to add a tad more and cut the strips 2 1/8″ wide to make it a little less tight when slipstitching and finishing the corners on the back.

Begin as always by aligning the raw edges of the binding to the trimmed raw edge of the quilt. Start in the middle of one side and leave a loose tail about 8” long. Backstitch and start sewing toward the first corner. Stop a few inches from the corner with your needle down and mark the binding 1/4″ in from the right side and also from the angled side on the bottom. I use a mechanical chalk pencil because it makes a nice fine line. Put a pin in the intersection of the two chalk lines so nothing shifts.

 

bohin chalk pencil

Bohin fine-line mechanical chalk pencil

 

marking binding corner

Mark 1/4″ in from both sides of the corner.

 

Sew precisely up to that point, backstitch, and remove the quilt from your machine.

 

sewing binding corner

Stitch right up to the marked corner and stop.

 

Now flip the binding up and to the right so the raw edge forms a perfectly straight line running up from the next edge to which it will be sewn.

 

binding flip

Flip the binding up and in line with the next edge.

 

Then fold it back down aligning the binding edges on top of the next edge of the quilt. The fold created in the binding should fall right at the angled corner. Pin.

 

second edge

Flip the binding back down, aligning it with the second edge.

 

Take the quilt back to the machine and begin stitching the next side from the raw edge at the corner. I add a little backstitch or securing stitch when I begin.

Continue sewing the binding in place as normal, treating each angled corner in the same way. When you reach the end, stop about 8” from your original start and connect your binding tails as usual.

Roll the binding to the backside of the quilt and slipstitch in place as you would normally. The back corners should pleat nicely at an angle. Be sure to stitch those down too.

The little flip up and down trick will work with any angled corner. Now that wasn’t nearly as difficult as you thought was it?

Best Stitches!

Donna